New Orleans City Guide - Restaurants

There is too much food in New Orleans, which is renowned for its famous chefs and fabulous fare, and too little time to try it all. It really is difficult to get a bad meal here, so reservations for most restaurants are advised. It is a good idea to call before going to a particular restaurant, as since Katrina, many have reduced staff and shorter hours.

The restaurants below have been classed into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations, although many New Orleans restaurants are not so easily categorised.
$$$$ (over US$70)
$$$ (US$35 to US$70)
$$ (US$20 to US$35)
$ (up to US$20)
The prices above are for a three course meal and the equivalent of a half-bottle of wine per person. The 9.5% sale tax and tip are not included.

Arnaud's

A portrait of Arnaud Cazenave gazing down at the diners dominates the main dining room. The décor, old chandeliers, etched glass, bentwood chairs and white tablecloths probably haven't been changed since this landmark restaurant opened in 1908. Its Richelieu Bar was a speakeasy during the prohibition. A picture gallery paves the way to its Mardi Gras costume exhibit in the upstairs museum. The shrimp rémoulade, oyster stew and crème brûlée are outstanding. Jacket is required in the main dining room. Open for dinner seven days a week and for a jazz brunch on Sunday.

813 Rue Bienville
Tel: 1 866 230 8895.
Website: www.arnauds.com
Price: $$$-$$$$

Brennan's

Since 1946, this New Orleans institution has been the place for sumptuous, calorie-laden breakfasts like eggs Benedict or original creations such as eggs Hussarde – poached eggs on Holland rusks with Canadian bacon, marchand du vin sauce and hollandaise sauce. Just as decadent is another speciality, oysters Rockefeller, as well as savoury veal and beef, which appear as lunch and dinner main courses and Brennan's original dessert – Bananas Foster (ice cream with brown sugar, fresh bananas and banana liqueur). Located in an historic, old French Quarter mansion.

417 Rue Royale
Tel: (504) 525 9711.
Website: www.brennansneworleans.com
Price: $$$-$$$$

The New Orleans Grill

In a city famous for its cuisine, this dining room rises to the top. The restaurant's European chef uses his French training, Louisiana foods and his creativity to create gastronomic delights. For example, the combination of lobster ravioli, sitting in a light bisque, and garnished with mushrooms and spinach is light but delicious. The tulip of jumbo crab starter, which combines lump crab with mango, pine nuts, green tomatoes and a pastry shell is yummy. Chocoholics will not want to miss the chocolate fondant with chocolate sorbet for dessert. What makes the food taste even better is the elegant setting accented with golds, corals and browns and murals depicting Old New Orleans. Classical music playing softly in the background and a view of the hotel's courtyard complete this truly special dining experience

Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier Street
Tel: (504) 523 6000 or 1 800 596 0955.
Website: www.windsorcourthotel.com
Price: $$$

Galatoire's

Not much has changed here in the last 100 years. Even now, brass chandeliers and bentwood chairs fill the narrow downstairs dining room and it is still a joy to just chat with the waiters. Most have been here forever or are second generation. Let them choose some specialities that have made this place famous – crab canapé Lorenzo, oysters en brochette and lamb chops with béarnaise sauce, trout Meunière Amandine or a dessert like sweet potato cheesecake. Top it off with the dramatic Café Brûlot – flaming brandy, Grand Marnier and spices added to coffee. Galatoire's has always been a favourite with chattering locals, so it can sometimes get a bit noisy. Jacket required.

209 Bourbon Street
Tel: (504) 525 2021.
Website: www.galatoires.com
Price: $$-$$$$

Café Adelaide

Named after the Brennan family's beloved but eccentric aunt, Café Adelaide tries to capture the local culture of the 1950s and 60s. Earth-toned upholstery and semi-circular booths with table lamps and wooden blinds make the large dining room area quite inviting. Two-thirds of the changing menu is seafood and fish, like the onion-crusted drum, but desserts such as Creole white chocolate bread pudding should not be missed, nor should the Adelaide Swizzle served at the table or at The Swizzle Stick Bar.

Loew's New Orleans Hotel, 300 Poydras Street
Tel: (504) 595 3305.
Website: www.cafeadelaide.com
Price: $$-$$$

Café du Monde

A visit to the Big Easy is not complete without a stop for mouth-watering beignets and chicory coffee au lait. Since 1862, these square, deep-fried fritters doused in mounds of powder sugar have titillated the taste buds of its patrons. There is not much more on the menu except juice, tea and milk, but who would desire anything else? Located in the French Market across from Jackson Square. The Café du Monde shop is across the street.

800 Decatur Street
Tel: (504) 525 4544 or 1 800 772 2927.
Website: www.cafedumonde.com
Price: $

Gumbo Shop

Locals as well as tourists come here to consume authentic, but reasonably priced, Creole cooking. Étouffée, jambalaya, red beans, bread pudding and gumbos are big-time favourites, but if you need to have them, there are also pizzas and po-boys (French bread filled with shrimp or roast beef). The simple décor (long tables and old-fashioned bentwood chairs) adds to the casual atmosphere.

630 Saint Peter Street
Tel: (504) 525 1486.
Website: www.gumboshop.com
Price: $-$$

Praline Connection

Ribs, collard greens, fried chicken. Deep South home-cooked, Cajun-Creole-style soul food rules at this funky part-restaurant, part candy store venue. Many locals believe that this is the place to go for fillet gumbo and sweet-potato pie. The staff is friendly and there is live music every night as well as a Sunday gospel brunch. Old-fashioned handmade pralines and sweet potato cookies are cooked fresh daily.

542 Frenchmen Street
Tel: (504) 943 3934.
Website: www.pralineconnection.com
Price: $-$$

Mother's

Locals will tell you that there is no better spot for authentic New Orleans grub. It must be true because since 1938, celebrities and ordinary folk alike have endured long lines in order to sidle up to the stainless-steel counter to order po-boys (French bread filled with shrimp or roast beef), jambalaya, étouffée or Mother's signature Ferdie special – baked ham and débris (roast beef pieces that drop into the gravy while cooking). This place is tiny so customers should not be surprised if they have to squeeze into a table or perch against the window to eat.

401 Poydras Street
Tel: (504) 523 9656.
Price: $

Commander's Palace

For 125 years, Commander's Palace has been a New Orleans gastronomic favourite, and with such treats as shrimp Cognac with andouille grits, poached oysters in cream or spicy turtle soup, how can it not be? Dine in the green and mahogany dining room or on the second floor Garden Room where huge windows reveal the patio's giant oak trees. The weekend jazz brunch is a bit more reasonable. Jacket required.

1403 Washington Avenue
Tel: (504) 899 8221.
Website: www.commanderspalace.com
Price: $$$-$$$$

K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen

Paul Prudholmme, the chef that put Cajun cooking on the map, is the owner of this popular restaurant. A friendly staff, open kitchen, unfinished walls and white tablecloths bordered with Cajun recipes make it inviting. Though new items on the changing menu are tempting, classics like shrimp étouffée, turtle soup, gumbo or fried green tomatoes should not be missed. Everything, including the rolls, bread pudding and the luscious green onion salad dressing is made from scratch.

416 Chartres Street
Tel: (504) 524 7394 or 596 2530.
Website: www.kpauls.com
Price: $$$

Five Happiness Chinese Restaurant

Need a break from the rich Cajun/Creole fare? Try the award-winning Five Happiness. For over 20 years, it has been a local favourite for mouth-watering delicacies like sizzling shrimp with honey-roasted pecans or asparagus with chicken. All is served by an accommodating staff. Chinese letters, paintings, and furniture as well as etched glass adorn the three dining rooms. Open for lunch and dinner every day.

3605 South Carrollton Avenue
Tel: (504) 482 3935.
Website: www.fivehappiness.com
Price: $$

Pascal's Manale Restaurant

This neighbourhood eatery in the Garden District is vintage N'Awlins. Since 1913, with its old-fashioned oyster bar and casual atmosphere, its focus has been on food and friendliness. Barbecued shrimp, cooked in the shell with butter and spice, was created here. While the latter is the hands-down favourite, steaks and Italian dishes are also featured. Dinner only.

1838 Napoleon Avenue
Tel: (504) 895 4877 or 1 800 772 2927.
Price: $$$

Court of the Two Sisters

At one time, this property housed a woman's shop, owned by two sisters, which is how the restaurant got its name. At the daily jazz brunch buffet, this French Quarter meeting place is a one-stop Creole tasting with choices like jambalaya, aubergine with andouille sausage, étouffée and bread pudding. Most diners prefer to eat in the charming outdoor courtyard. At night, the restaurant becomes a white tablecloth, sit-down dinner venue with an à la carte menu.

613 Royal Street
Tel: (504) 522 7261.
Website: www.courtoftwosisters.com
Price: $$$

Tujague's

For 150 years, Tujague's recipe for beef brisket in Creole sauce has not changed and it is still delicious. There is no menu, just a seven-course prix fixe dinner which always includes shrimp rémoulade, soup, the brisket and a choice of main courses. Hopefully one of them is garlic chicken. Located across from Café du Monde, the décor is simple – panelled walls covered with autographed pictures and cabinets which contain airline-sized bottles of whiskey. Service is iffy.

823 Decatur Street
Tel: (504) 525 9713.
Website: www.tujaguesrestaurant.com
Price: $$$