Marrakech City Guide - Getting Around

The national coach company CTM (tel: (022) 438 282; website: www.ctm.co.ma) is the main provider of urban bus services within Marrakech. Most local bus services leave from Marrakech's central bus station just outside Bab Doukkala on the northwestern edge of the old city. CTM services are reliable and operate from early morning until late at night, with night buses running on the more popular routes. However, buses can be very crowded at peak hours. Single fares are paid to the driver on boarding. Buses 1 and 20 ply the route between Guéliz and Jemaa el Fna along Boulevard Mohammed V.

Quicker than the buses, petits taxis are standard metered taxis - small beige hatchback cars, normally Fiats, which can be hailed around the city. Check to see that the meter is working when you get in, and know that anywhere you go within Guéliz or Hivernage will cost slightly more at night. When you arrive at your destination, round up the fare to the nearest dirham or two as a tip. Petits taxis are ubiquitous on Marrakech's streets so there should be no need to telephone one. Hotels can arrange pick-ups if necessary.

Grands taxis are old Mercedes cars that carry up to six people for a fixed fare agreed upon in advance, usually to out-of-town destinations such as Essaouira. When full, grands taxis leave from the bus station, from the Jemaa el Fna and from the Post Office in Guéliz. Grands taxis and petits taxis can also be hired in exclusivity for tours of the city, or day trips outside the city.

A calèche is a horse-drawn carriage carrying up to five people, either as a mode of transport within the medina or as a picturesque way to tour the environs of Marrakech or arrive at dinner in the Hivernage. State-fixed hourly rates should be painted on the side of the carriage; for short trips, prices should be agreed in advance. Calèches line up in the garden square between the Koutoubia Mosque and Jemaa el Fna, el Badi Palace and the more expensive hotels in the Hivernage.

Many of the roads in the Marrakech medina are simply too narrow for cars, and only small cars can negotiate the rest. It is advisable to park the car and use taxis while in the city. Furthermore, accident rates are very high, especially around the medina, where people and cyclists are apt to pull out suddenly in front of the traffic. After dark, the dangers increase since it is legal to drive cars and ride bicycles without lights at up to 20kph (12mph). Parking in Guéliz can be found at any of the big hotels or off the Avenue Mohammed V, but be warned: street parking is elusive and 'parking guardians' expect a tip for keeping an eye on your car. In the medina, security-patrolled spaces are available at Jemaa-el-Fna outside the Foucauld Hôtel and near the Bahia Palace in the car park on Rue Riad Zitoun el Jedid beside the Préfecture (police headquarters).

The major car hire companies can almost all be found at the airport and in Guéliz in the area around Place Abdel Moumen ben Ali, which links Avenue Mohammed V with Boulevard Mohammed Zerktouni. These include: Avis, 137 Avenue Mohammed V (tel: (024) 432 525 or 433 169 (airport office); website: www.avis.com), Budget, 80 Boulevard Zerktouni (tel: (024) 431 180 or 438 875 (airport office) or 440 720 (La Mamounia Hotel office); website: www.budget.com), Europcar, 63 Boulevard Zerktouni (tel: (024) 431 228 or 437 718 (airport office); website: www.europcar.com), and Hertz, 154 Avenue Mohammed V (tel: (024) 439 984 or 447 230 (airport office); website: www.hertz.com).

Hire fees are subject to 20% government tax; visitors should make sure that this has been added to the agreed price. Although smaller local companies can be much cheaper, this is often reflected in the condition of the cars. However, one more reputable outfit is Concorde Cars, 154 Avenue Mohammed V (tel: (024) 431 116; website: http://concordecar.ifrance.com).

Drivers must usually be over 21 years of age to hire a car and in possession of a national driving licence. Most European driving licences are acknowledged in Morocco, but an International Driving Permit is recommended. Third-party insurance is automatically included when renting a car, but you might want to pay extra for collision damage waiver and personal insurance to avoid exorbitant charges in case of an accident.

Popular alternatives to car travel include bicycles and scooters. Both can be rented from Adoul Abdellah, 14 Avenue Abdelkarim el Khattabi, Guéliz (tel: (024) 432 238), or Marrakech Motos, 31 Avenue Abdelkarim el Khattabi, Guéliz (tel: (024) 448 359). Test the brakes and tyres before hiring. Bicycles can also be hired from Hotel Ali, Rue Moulay Ismail, Medina (tel: (024) 444 979), and from a number of small operators around Place 16 Novembre in Guéliz. Traffic congestion around the medina and disregard for road rules can make cycling on main roads dangerous. A more popular bicycle route is from the medina out to the Pameraie (palm grove), though a mountain bike may be needed to handle rugged unpaved roads.