Istanbul City Guide - Nightlife

Beyoglu has been the site of drinking, dancing, theatre, debauchery and other non-Muslim pastimes in Istanbul for centuries. There are few decent nightlife haunts in Sultanahmet. Although it developed a reputation for seediness in the 1980s, Istanbul's huge youth population and the spirit of liberalism has ensured the district's recovery, with the clip joints and strip clubs rolling back off Istiklal Caddesi to make room for more nightclubs, wine bars and jazz venues. Clubs and bars open, close and change name faster than you can say ‘Constantinople' but there is a growing trend for pricey, trendy rooftop bars especially around Beyoglu and Ortaköy. Technically, the drinking age is 18 years but identity cards are rarely checked.

As in most cities, drinks prices vary hugely. The tavernas or meyhanes are much cheaper than nightclubs or live music venues. It is advisable to check for cover charges at live music venues. Meyhanes tend to close at 2400, bars at 0100 or 0200, while clubs can stay open as late as 0600 at weekends. Visitors (especially lone men) are advised to avoid the seedier venues in the back alleys off Istiklal Caddesi and to be very cautious if a new acquaintance suggests a venue. Many strip shows or belly-dancing clubs operate a system whereby unsuspecting visitors will be expected to pick up a huge tab for women (usually prostitutes) who somehow end up at their table all night. For those seeking 24-hour sheesha (waterpipe), tea and backgammon, the string of cafes on Amerikan Pasaj, Tophane, is popular with students and all locals.

Time Out Istanbul (the same company and format as the London publication) is an English-language monthly magazine with entertainment listings, features and reviews. The Guide Istanbul (website: www.theguideturkey.com/istanbul ) provides up-to-date information on the latest bars and clubs. Turkish Daily News, the English-language daily newspaper, will also have entertainment and listings.

Bars: The centre of nightlife is undoubtedly Beyoglu, with a huge range of bars and clubs. Running off Istiklal Caddesi, the side-street Imam Adnan Sokak has several, like Kaktus, many with tables outside. For a fun Friday or Saturday night with a mixed crowd, the third-floor Dogzstar Teras, Tosbağa sokak 22, opens its roof in the summer. In the middle of Istiklal is ultra-cool rooftop terrace bar 360, on the top floor of Misir Apartment, overlooking the city. Lower down Istiklal is Nevizade Sokak, behind Cicek Pasaj, a narrow boisterous street packed with bars, including the noisy, friendly Aslanim and Vera. Pano Sarap Evi (Wine Bar) on Mesrutiyet Caddesi is a Greek-style drinking house also selling decent food, with good selection of house wines. Nearer Tünel, the narrow streets around Asmalimescit have countless little bars and seemingly a new one opening every week. Over in the village of Ortaköy, up the Bosphorus, there are a range of upmarket bars and cafes for fashionistas, like the waterfront House Café on Salhane Sokak. Galata Bridge has several bars, Dersa'adet, Galata Bridge, Karakoy, being one of the liveliest with live local music most nights.

Clubs: Istanbul's clubs range between a tiny dancefloor in a Beyoglu pub, to swish terraces overlooking the Bosphorus where revellers go to be seen. The two most famous in the latter group are both in Ortakoy: Reina and Crystal (both on Muallim Naci) have been likened to an entertainment emporium, with several bars, dance floors and restaurants, and packed with celebs, models and millionaires. A little smaller is the equally trendy Angelique, Muallim Naci Caddesi, Salhane Sokak 10, Ortakőy, spread over three floors and with a waterfront location; it is thronging in summer. Some plush clubs won't admit unaccompanied men. Babylon Seybender Sokak, off Asmalimescit (website: www.babylon-ist.com), has international DJs playing decent house, techno and international sounds. Karga, Kadife Sokak 16, Kadikoy, is a chilled bar with local house and techno DJs and visiting bands. At weekends, there are several bars around Asmalimescit which have dancing till late.

Live Music: Babylon, Seybender Sokak, off Asmalimescit (website: www.babylon-ist.com), puts on adventurous experimental and jazz concerts with local and international DJs and bands. Re-Fresh the Venue, Yil Sanayi Sitesi 100, Maslak, and Parkorman, Büyükdere Caddesi, both in Maslak, are huge open-air venues for bands. Roxy, Aslan Yatagi Sokak, Siraselviler-Taksim, is a popular club, sometimes featuring foreign, Turkish and international pop and rock groups. The highly respected Nardis Jazz Club, Kulebi Sokak 14, Galata, has live musicians every night, ranging from classic, modern, fusion and ethnic jazz, and also serves food. Istanbul Jazz Centre, Ciragan Cadddesi 48, Ortaköy, has international jazz artists performing most nights. Pozitif Promotions (website: www.pozitif-ist.com), which runs Babylon, puts on the Akbank Jazz Festival and the Efes Pilsen International Blues Festival.

For traditional music, check out bars and meyhanes advertising fasil, or classical romantic singing, especially around Beyoglu.