Hong Kong City Guide - Getting Around

Hong Kong has one of the most efficient and diverse public transport systems in the world, incorporating an underground railway, light urban railways, buses, minibuses, boats, ferries and trams. However, the diversity of operators prevents full integration and it is not possible, for example, to transfer from train to minibus on the same ticket, although the Octopus Card is very widely accepted.

The Mass Transit Railway (MTR) (tel: 2881 8888; website: www.mtr.com.hk) has five underground metro lines including two cross-harbour lines, as well as the Airport Express link. It is more expensive than the ferry but quicker, particularly for those travelling further into Kowloon than Tsim Sha Tsui. The MTR runs daily 0555-2435. The only other railway line is the Kowloon-Canton Railway (KCR) (see Getting There By Rail), which has 13 stations within Hong Kong. Fares are metered by the number of stations, with only limited zoning.

Bus routes run throughout the territory, with cross-harbour routes via the tunnel. These, however, are often very crowded. Exact change is required for those passengers not in possession of an Octopus Card. Air-conditioned coaches operate along certain Hong Kong and Kowloon routes. Citybus (tel: 2873 0818; website: www.citybus.com.hk) and New World First Bus (tel: 2136 8888; website: www.nwfb.com.hk) are the two licensed operators for bus services on Hong Kong Island. Kowloon Motor Bus (tel: 2745 4466; website: www.kmb.com.hk) operates on Kowloon Side. Buses operate daily from around 0600-2430. A night bus service runs all night.

Minibuses operate on fixed routes. These pick up passengers who flag them down like taxis and stop on request (the procedure is for passengers to stand up and yell) except at regular bus stops and other restricted areas. Payment is almost invariably by cash and drivers are not compelled to move without a full load, so they often loiter at traffic lights, waiting to pick up more passengers. Fares vary by distance and are usually incomprehensible to non-locals - some minibuses now accept Octopus Card payment. Minibuses run daily from around 0600-2430 and a night service operates on specific routes - between Central in Hong Kong and Mongkok or between eastern Hong Kong Island and Kennedy Town in the west.

Trams are only available on Hong Kong Island. They are frequent and cheap - temporary visitors are unlikely to encounter the far more advanced supertrams in suburban Kowloon. The Peak Tram, on the Island, is a funicular tramway to the upper terminus on Victoria Peak (see Key Attractions).

The Star Ferry (tel: 2367 7065; website: www.starferry.com.hk) ride across Hong Kong harbour is a tourist ‘must do', as well as the cheapest way to make the crossing. Star Ferry terminals are in Tsim Sha Tsui and Central. Services operate daily 0630-2330. It also operates daytime and evening tours of Victoria Harbour. Other ferry services also connect with the outlying islands of the territory and other destinations.

An MTR Tourist Ticket, valid for a full day of unlimited rides, is available and includes a map and souvenir ticket. A three-day Hong Kong Transport Pass is also available, with two options: choose between one Airport Express single journey and three days of unlimited MTR rides, or two Airport Express journeys and three days of MTR rides. Both can be upgraded for use on all buses, trams and other public transport services. The price includes a refundable deposit; the value of unused travel can be refunded at the end of usage.

However, for visitors staying for a week or more, it is worth getting the Octopus Card (tel: 2266 2222; website: www.octopuscards.com) - a smart card that automatically deducts the cost of the journey when it is placed on a sensor. The price includes a refundable deposit. The card may be used on MTR services, as well as on the Kowloon-Canton Railway, certain ferry routes (including the Star Ferry), major bus routes and some minibuses. It is also redeemable for products purchased at 410 different service providers in Hong Kong, including 7-Eleven, Starbucks, Watsons and KFC. The MTR Tourist Ticket and Octopus Cards are available for purchase at the ticket kiosk of any MTR station.

Taxis are plentiful in Hong Kong and Kowloon and are extremely cheap - most journeys cost less than HK$20. There are taxi ranks in busy locations but taxis can be flagged down anywhere on the street. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, green ones serve the New Territories and blue ones Lantau Island. Taxis with a rectangular red plaque on their dashboard are generally cross-harbour taxis. Some journeys incur an extra toll, such as trips through the cross-harbour tunnel. Charges are also sometimes added when carrying luggage. It is common for passengers to round up the fare to the nearest dollar, although this is not mandatory.

Many drivers speak a little English but visitors would be advised to carry a map or have their destination written in Chinese characters. It is also wise for passengers to ask if the taxi is a Hong Kong or Kowloon taxi when boarding, especially late at night - drivers are happiest sticking to their own side of the water.

Driving in Hong Kong is best left to professionals. With one of the best public transport systems in the world and ubiquitous taxis, there is no need for visitors to risk going behind the wheel. Rates on cars are strong deterrents, with a 100% vehicle import tax and petrol tax, as well as hefty insurance and vehicle registration fees. This does, however, make second-hand cars surprisingly cheap, even once the price of shipping one home has been factored in. The Ferraris, Maseratis and other premium vehicles lined up in Central in the evenings, show that cars are expensive toys in Hong Kong.

Major car parks in Central are at the Parking Building, Murray Road, and the Airport Express Terminal, Man Cheung Road. In Causeway Bay, the World Trade Centre, near the Excelsior Hotel is the main parking point, while in Kowloon, parking can be found at the Lippo Sun Plaza, Kowloon Park Drive in Tsim Sha Tsui.

It is wise for one not to be in charge of a rented vehicle in Hong Kong's vertiginous streets, as the large refundable deposit on hire cars testifies. Car hire companies usually require drivers to be over 25 years. A valid driving licence from the country of residence or an International Driving Permit is required, as well as minimum third-party insurance. Major operators include Avis (tel: 2890 6988; website: www.avis.com) and Hertz (tel: 2525 1313; website: www.hertz.com).

It might be consoling to know that if one chooses to cycle in central Hong Kong, the traffic will kill one long before the appalling air quality does. Nevertheless, there are places for visitors to enjoy cycling - out on the islands or in the New Territories.

Bicycles are available for hire from Hop Cheong Bicycle Shop (tel: 2896 0816) and Siu Kee Bicycle (tel: 2981 1384) in Cheung Chau. The New Territories offer bicycle hire at Tai Po KCR station. For mountain bike gear, contact Flying Ball Bicycle Company (tel: 2381 3661; website: www.flyingball.com).