Chennai (Madras) City Guide - Getting Around

As Chennai is so large and sprawling, it is impractical to get around on foot. The most convenient way of getting around the city is by autorickshaw, which are everywhere and seem to spot a tourist a mile away. The drivers here will rarely agree to putting on the meter and will insist at fixing the rate, that too at an invariably inflated price. Try to check the going rate with a local to get some idea before you start bargaining; never get in until the deal is done and always pay at the conclusion of your trip. Drivers may try to increase the price, mid journey, blaming rain and/or traffic jams. They may also try and drag you into a hard-selling emporium where they receive commission (at your cost); declining is advised. If you find a driver that you like, it is worth hiring him by the day or for the duration of your stay (better rates are usually available the longer your hire period).

The suburban railway (daily 0500-2300) runs approximately every 10 to 15  minutes between Central Railway and the northern suburbs, from east to west, and from the eastern beach to the southern suburbs. Stations include Egmore, the airport (Tirusulam), St Thomas Mount, Lighthouse (Marina Beach) and the fort (Park Town).

Buses (daily 0500-2200) are extremely crowded and best avoided for longer journeys. Signs are mostly in Tamil so ask around for the correct route and destination. It can be a real leap of faith, but this is definitely the cheapest way of getting around.

Taxis are mainly seen outside large hotels, local taxi stands and some transport hubs. You can book taxis independently or through hotels and some travel agents (the latter two attract service charges). Fares should be negotiated at the start of each journey; tipping is optional. Taxi companies include Comfort City Cabs (tel: (044) 4214 8555) and Fast Track (tel: (044) 2473 2020).

Hiring a car with a driver is possible at the airport and from most hotels; many major international companies are represented. Avis (tel: (044) 234 4747 or 234 0113; website: www.avis.com) and Hertz (tel: (044) 2235 3113; website: www.hertz.com) are reliable options. Local car hire companies include Praveenn Tours and Travels (tel: (044) 2485 2034; website: www.praveenntravels.com), City Cabs (tel: (044) 2815 7775) and Express Travel Corporation (ETC) (tel: (044) 2827 2279; website: www.expresstravelcorp.com). Rates differ depending on quality of the vehicle and whether you opt for air conditioning or not. It is strongly recommended that you do not try to drive yourself - not only is it difficult to deal with the vagaries of Indian driving, but the cost of the insurance will probably outweigh the cost of a driver.