Amsterdam City Guide - Culture

Amsterdam has always had a vibrant and varied cultural scene but over the last few decades it has blossomed, thanks to a renewed interest in Dutch culture. First and foremost, Amsterdam is a musical city, offering a range of musical styles from street performers and carillons (a typical instrument of many bells and a keyboard. The name also refers to much bigger bell towers.) to the more highbrow midday and evening performances in the Concertgebouw (Concert Hall) (see Music below), which is noted for its superb acoustics. On most summer evenings, it is possible for punters to attend an organ concert or a recital of baroque chamber music in one of Amsterdam's magnificent old churches, such as Oude Kerk and Nieuwe Kerk.

Amsterdam stages around 15,000 performances every year (roughly 40 a day), although there is a more concentrated cultural season lasting from September to the end of June. Shows do not cost a fortune and a relaxed dress code means that even the opera can be attended in fairly casual clothes.

Tickets to cultural events can be booked through AUB, Leidseplein 26 (tel: 0900 0191; website: www.aub.nl). AUB only accepts payment by credit card. Listings for cultural events are available online (website: www.visitamsterdam.nl).

Music: The Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 2-6 (tel: (020) 671 8345; website: www.concertgebouw.nl) is not only home to the world-famous Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra (website: www.concertgebouworkest.nl), conducted by Mariss Jansons, but also plays host to visiting companies and international soloists. Free concerts take place in either the Grote Zaal (Great Hall) or Kleine Zaal (Recital Hall) of the Concertgebouw, on Wednesdays 1230-1300.

The Beurs de Berlage, Damrak 62A (tel: (020) 530 4141; website: www.beursvanberlage.net), is an architecturally fascinating building, where the 140-member Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra (website: www.orkest.nl) is based. The Netherlands Chamber Orchestra (website: www.orkest.nl) and guest artists tend to perform in the building's 'glass box', the Aga Zaal. The Boekmanzaal is part of the Muziektheater (Opera House), Amstel 3 (tel: (020) 551 8117; website: www.muziektheater.nl), home of Netherlands Opera (website: www.dno.nl). It holds a free lunchtime concert at 1230-1300 on Tuesdays (October to June), often performed by members of the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra, and the Choir of the Netherlands Opera (website: www.dno.nl).

Less-formal concerts are performed by four of the city's large-scale 17th-century carillons (bell towers), on a weekly basis. Bell ringing takes place on Tuesdays 1200-1300 at Westertoren (Western Tower), Thursdays at Zuidertoren (Southern Tower) and Fridays at Munttoren, the city's old Mint Tower, which rises above busy Kalverstraat. The bell ringer at Oude Kerkstoren (Old Church Tower) gets to sleep in - concerts are Saturdays 1600-1700.

Theatre: Some international fringe theatre companies perform in English and the Stadsschouwburg (Municipal Theatre), Leidseplein 26 (tel: (020) 624 2311; website: www.stadsschouwburgamsterdam.nl), often stages English-language theatre productions, as well as dance performances. Musicals and cabaret find a home in the Koninklijk Theater Carré (Royal Carré Theatre), Amstel 115-125 (tel: (020) 252 5255; website: www.theatercarre.nl), situated on the River Amstel, and in the nearby Kleine Komedie, Amstel 56-58 (tel: (020) 624 0534; website: www.dekleinekomedie.nl), a charming little theatre dating back to 1788.

Dance: The Dutch National Ballet (tel: (020) 551 8225; website: www.het-nationale-ballet.nl) is considered one of the best and most versatile companies in Western Europe. Its many devotees flock to the Muziektheater (Opera House) (see Music above), a 1,600-seat coliseum overlooking the River Amstel, to see the great classical ballets as well as works by 20th-century dance innovators. The Muziektheater also plays host to the Netherlands Dance Theatre (website: www.ndt.nl), Holland's other world-class ballet company, as well as foreign companies. Situated on a curve of the Amstel, in the heart of the city, this cultural landmark is, despite its size, amazingly intimate. The venue is closed in July.

Film: The multi-screen City, Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 13-25 (tel: 0900 1458), on the Leidseplain, shows Hollywood blockbusters. But Amsterdam is also known for its arty cinemas, such as the art deco Tuschinski, Reguliersbreestraat 26-28 (tel: 0900 1458), which shows films from all over the world. Films are rarely dubbed into Dutch but are shown in the original language with subtitles.

Films shot in Amsterdam include Mike van Diem's Karakter (1997), Dick Maas's Amsterdamned (1987), Diamonds are Forever (1971), and more recently, Ocean's Twelve (2005).

Literary Notes: Ian McEwan won the 1998 Booker Prize for his Amsterdam (1998), which is partly set in the city. The city also provided the inspiration for part of John Irving's novel, A Widow for One Year (1999), and Sidney Sheldon's If Tomorrow Comes (1986). Albert Camus wrote La Chute (1970) while based here. More recently, Deborah Moggach's Tulip Fever (1998) depicted life in 16th-century Amsterdam. The city has played a prominent role in the works of Dutch authors - two well-known books that have been translated into English include Blue Mondays (1994) by Arnon Grunberg and Bitter Herbs (1957) by Marga Minco. The unique ambience of Amsterdam permeates the work of Nicolas Freeling, in his detective novel, A Long Silence (1972). Perhaps the most famous work to come out of Amsterdam, however, is The Diary of Anne Frank (1947). Marga Minco's Empty House (1986) might be less famous but it explores some of the same issues. A lighter work is Janwillem van de Wetering's Amsterdam Cops (2001), a collection of cop stories that are mainly set in the capital's underworld. Geert Mak's Amsterdam: A Brief Life (2001) is ostensibly a guide to the city but its historical depth and highly personalised detail make it an interesting read for repeat visitors wanting to delve further under Amsterdam's skin. My 'Dam Life (2003), by Sean Condon, is a colourful, by turns humorous and dark, account of the Australian author's experience of living in the city. Love Life (2007), by Ray Klunn, is a novel set between Miami and Amsterdam that delves into the seedier side of the city.