Buenos Aires City Guide - Getting Around

The best way to get around Buenos Aires is to take the bus or Subte (subway) to an area and then explore it on foot. The city's transport service is extensive, inexpensive and efficient. It is worth investing in a good street and transportation map if planning to stay more than a few days.

To avoid the motorised madness, take the Subte (subway), the underground train service operated by Metrovias (tel: 0800 555 1616; website: www.metrovias.com.ar). It comprises six lines (A to E and H) and a premetro system that links the end of Line E. You can buy pre-paid Subtecards or passes from the ticket booths (boleterias) at each station in denominations of one, two, five, 10 or 30 journeys.

Colectivos (local buses) are also useful for travelling within the city limits and many services operate 24 hours a day. No one company is responsible for the bus system in Buenos Aires but routes are detailed on the Los Colectivos (website: www.loscolectivos.com.ar). Routes and numbers can be confusing, so consult a map and ask the advice of locals. Colectivos can be identified by the route number and main destination displayed above the windshield.

Urban train services are operated by Trenes de Buenos Aires - TBA (tel: 0800 333 3822; website: www.tbanet.com.ar) and Ferrovias (website: www.ferrovias.com.ar), and can be a useful way of getting to outlying residential districts. TBA runs the most comprehensive service with useful routes to Palermo, Belgrano, San Isidro and Tigre. You can buy tickets at stations.

Combined public transport passes are not available.

Yellow and black taxis are in plentiful supply and you can easily hail them in the street. Generally, taxis are safe but it is advisable to telephone a radio taxi in advance. Reputable radio taxi companies include Premium (tel: (011) 5238 0000; website: www.taxipremium.com.ar) and Radio Taxi Pidalo (tel: (011) 4956 1200).

Remises are fixed-fare taxis or minicabs booked in advance. They can generally offer fixed rates that are cheaper than standard taxis, especially for airport runs and longer journeys. Recommended providers include ABC (tel: (011) 4315 6070), Remises Universal (tel: (011) 4315 6555) and Annie Millet Transfers (tel: (011) 6777 7777; website: www.amillet.com.ar).

There is little point in bringing a car to Buenos Aires. Traffic in the city centre (Centro) is hectic and heavily congested during the rush hour. The grid system is reasonably easy to master. Arrows indicate the directions on street signs. Drivers are generally determined and have a low tolerance level for hesitant or slow drivers. Accidents are common - one tip is to slow down and flash the vehicle lights when approaching cross intersections without traffic lights at night. The Microcentro (financial centre of the city) is off limits to traffic between 0700 and 2100.

Parquimetros (parking meters) in the Macrocentro (outer city) on weekdays are in use from 0700 to 2100 and take tokens (fichas) purchased from kiosks or coin machines. Numerous estacionamientos (car parks) or playas (parking bays) are usually marked by flag-waving dummies. Hotel parking is sometimes available at the more expensive hotels.

Although driving in Buenos Aires is not recommended, a car may be useful for excursions and there are plenty of car hire companies in the city. Avis, Calle Cerrito 1527 (tel: (011) 4326 5542) and Ezeiza International Airport (tel: (011) 4480 9387; website: www.avis.com), Budget, Avenida Leandro N Alem 1110 (tel: (011) 5031 0199; website: www.budget.com.ar), Dollar, MT de Alvear 449 (tel: (011) 4315 8800; website: www.dollar.com.ar), Hertz, Calle Paraguay 1138 (tel: (011) 4816 8001) and Ezeiza International Airport (tel: (011) 4480 0054; website: www.hertz.com), and Localiza, Rivadavia 1126 (tel: (011) 4382 9267) and Jorge Newbery domestic airport (tel: 0800 999 2999, in Argentina only; website: www.localiza.com.ar), are all safe options.

Drivers must be a minimum of 21 years old but some companies state 25 years. A valid driving licence is acceptable but an International Driving Permit is recommended. You should book in advance if planning to hire over the weekend or holidays.

Cycling in Buenos Aires is generally not a good idea as the traffic is hectic and drivers have little regard for cyclists. Cycle lanes are rare but the number of designated routes is growing and there are some good cycle paths in the city's parks and alongside some stretches of the river. You can hire three-gear road bikes and tandems from Bike Tours, 14th floor, Calle Florida 868 (tel: (011) 4311 5199; website: www.biketours.com.ar).