Central European in appearance and spirit, Zagreb bears the hallmark of centuries spent under Vienna and Budapest. The capital of Croatia, with just over a million inhabitants (a quarter of the nation), Zagreb is the country's economic, industrial and administrative powerhouse.

Founded in the Middle Ages, Zagreb began life as two separate entities, Kaptol and Gradec, which today comprise the historic Gornji Grad (Upper Town). Centred around the city's landmark cathedral, Kaptol was a religious centre, while Gradec was home to craftsmen and merchants. Outsiders collectively referred to the settlements as Zagreb (meaning 'behind the hill'), although they were not officially united as the City of Zagreb until 1850.

Boom time followed with the late 19th century characterised by the arrival of the railways and the construction of Donji Grad (Lower Town). Next came industrialisation and the influx of migrant labour. Croatia's war of independence (1991-1995) saw Zagreb flounder as its industry collapsed and refugees flooded the city.

Today the difficult days of the early 1990s seem a world away. A strong national economy, coupled with investment in business and tourism, has restored the city to its former glory. For the visitor this translates as an ever-increasing choice of plush accommodation and a plethora of chic bars and restaurants, as well as the chance to ride on shiny new trams and to see some of Croatia's most important cultural sights.

It is perhaps no surprise, then, that Zagreb is confidently leading Croatia towards full integration into the European Union, with accession predicted as early as 2009.