Romans concur with Parisians that it is better to be chic than shocking. Consequently, Rome's shops are full of (often expensive and almost identical) fine clothes, leathers, shoes and bags. In winter, real fur is still de rigeur among the older generations.

The smart designer shops, where sales assistants can be snooty and price tags discreetly absent, are concentrated in the network of streets spanning out from the Spanish Steps. Of these, Via Condotti has most of the big names: Gucci, Max Mara, Valentino, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Salvatore Ferragamo, Bruno Magli and Giorgio Armani.

Bulgari, number 10, displays glitteringly expensive watches, while Damiani, number 84, stocks alarmingly costly jewellery. Nearby in Piazza di Spagna, Dolce & Gabbana offers slightly more entertaining but equally expensive gear. Fendi has taken over the whole of 19th-century Palazzo Boncompagni Ludovisi on Largo Goldoni and filled it with travertine marble and an endless array of furs, shoes, bags and its ready-to-wear collection. Other big names here are Gianni Versace, Moschino, Tod's, Gianfranco Ferré, and locally born and bred ‘Queen of Cashmere' Laura Biagiotti.

In the same area, the TAD conceptstore, Via Babuino 155A, specialises in ‘ethnic-chic', with departments ranging from furniture to flowers and clothing to music. There is also a hairdresser's and a cafe. On neighbouring Via Frattina, number 23, the glorious Pineider stocks upmarket stationery and desk equipment.

Just off Campo de' Fiori, Via dei Giubbonari teems with hip shops and a range of accessible labels (check out colourful Roman designer Angelo di Nepi here). You can find affordable buys in the high-street shops lining Via del Corso, Via del Tritone, Via Nazionale and Via Cola di Rienzo. Alternatively, you can snap up bargains in the January and July sales or at one of the two large and garish outlets a short drive outside Rome - Castel Romano Outlet and Fashion District Valmontone.

The antiques quarters lie along Via Margutta, Via del Babuino, Via Giulia, Via dei Banchi Vecchi and Via de' Coronari (the pedestrian street organises fairs in May and October when its stores are open late). Bric-a-brac and retro clothes are on offer at the increasingly popular flea markets, the best being Via Sannio near San Giovanni (Monday to Saturday 0730-1400) and Porta Portese in Trastevere (Sunday 0700-1300).

Although there are supermarkets and shopping malls in Rome, including one of the oldest in the city, the 100-shop Centro Commerciale Cinecittà Due, Viale Palmiro Togliatti 2, the preferred Roman shopping style is to visit the local fruit and vegetable markets (Monday to Saturday 0700-1300) and to dip in and out of delicatessens. Things are slowly changing however, with supermarkets increasingly (and unfortunately) making their presence felt.

Luxury goods to take home may include assorted vinegar, truffles and olive oil. Castroni, Via Cola di Rienzo 196, sells the culinary riches from Italy's regions and comforting imports from around the world (including baked beans). The well-established Trimani, Via Goito 20, was founded in 1821 and stocks an excellent selection of Italian wines.

Smaller shops often close for lunch (1300-1630). Larger stores, department stores and shops in touristy areas tend to stay open all day (0900/1000-1930) and open with reduced hours on Sunday. Opening times can be confusing, with many food shops closed on Thursday afternoon (in winter) and other shops not opening until the afternoon on Monday. Summer brings later opening hours (until 2000) but also Saturday afternoon closing for small, family-owned shops and complete closure for at least a fortnight in July, August or September.

Value-added tax (IVA) is 20% on clothing and luxury goods. Foreign tourists from non-EU countries can claim a tax refund, provided they spend at least €155 at the same shop on the same day. Those who are eligible should ask the shop assistant for a receipt (with a description of the articles purchased) and a ‘tax-free cheque'. Upon departure from the EU (no later than 90 days after the date of purchase), these should be presented to customs. Global Refund (website: www.globalrefund.com) can provide more information.