For a Half Day

Ostia Antica: A 40-minute train ride from Piramide station or a pleasant drive along Via del Mare is Ostia Antica - Imperial Rome's main port from the second to ninth centuries AD. It was founded in the seventh century BC, by King Ancus Marcius, and lay abandoned until excavations in the 19th century. The shoreline has now withdrawn 3km (2 miles) away to the present Lido di Ostia and, at first glance, all that can be seen is a network of thoroughfares with the odd upstanding column. However, a few hours spent in this quiet spot and the imagination will conjure up the former thriving town and the day-to-day lives of its inhabitants. The main artery, the Decumanus Maximus, leads to an amphitheatre with fantastic acoustics, which is perfect for a peaceful picnic. Mosaics at the Forum of the Corporations depict the produce sold or trade practised, while the bar, Thermopiliu, with its wide marble counter and lively fresco, evokes leisure time. Temples to a host of deities summon up the religious life and the homes of Ostia's inhabitants reveal mosaic interiors, while communal latrines are testament to more mundane activities. The museum displays coins, glassware and statues. The site (Viale dei Romagnoli 717, tel: (06) 5635 2830; website: www.ostiaantica.net) is open Tues-Sun 0830-1900 (last entry at 1800) from April to October, daily 0830-1700 (last entry at 1600) from November to February, and daily 0830-1800 (last entry at 1700) in March.

For a Whole Day

Tivoli: A 20km (12.5 mile) drive east of Rome (along the A24) lies the hilltop town of Tivoli. Alternatively, travellers can take a Cotral bus from Ponte Mammolo metro stop or a train from Tiburtina station. Only some of the Cotral buses stop at Hadrian's Villa so be sure to ask first. From Tivoli train station, take local bus 4 to get there.

Conquered by the Romans in 338BC, the town became the prized spot upon which to build luxurious villas and homes for wealthy families. The Villa d'Este (tel: (0774) 332 920; website: www.villadestetivoli.info) is one such folly, built in 1550, according to the whim of art patron Cardinal Ippolito d'Este (son of Lucrezia Borgia). The state apartment is decorated with the swirling frescoes and paintings of Correggio, Da Volterra and Perrin del Vaga, while outside are the vast Renaissance gardens. Their fountains can only be described as kitsch, the Owl Fountain was designed to echo the owl's hoots, and Fontana dell'Organo Idraulico, which imitated the organ's burblings.

As much, if not more, imagination went into the construction of the Villa Adriana (Hadrian's Villa) (tel: (0774) 382 733; website: www.pierreci.it), which has been included on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. Enough of the Canopus fountain (with its sturdy columns and statues overlooking a central pool) remains to evoke the peace of this domain and country retreat for Rome's great military campaigner. It is thought that his favourite spot was the tiny island, cut off completely from the surrounding man-made pool (Teatro Marittimo) by an ingenious retractable bridge.

The standard opening hours for Villa d'Este and Villa Adriana are 0830-1900 and 0830-1930 respectively (ticket office closes one hour earlier) in summer, and an hour before dusk the rest of the year.